Hiking the Oeyama Portion of the Oni Trail: Discover Nature and History

Oeyama refers collectively to the seven peaks in a mountain range that extends across the municipalities of Fukuchiyama, Yosano, Miyazu and Maizuru. The tallest is the 832m-high Senjogatake. Part of a quasi-national park that encompasses the entire Tango region, the mountain range has a rich ecosystem with flora and fauna of both northern and southern Japan, and is inhabited by a wide variety of insects and birds. One of Oeyama’s main drawcards is an ethereal sea of clouds that engulfs the mountains in the early morning during autumn and winter. Historically, the area is notable for a vital transportation route that was established through the mountains over 1300 hundred years ago, and some of the original cobblestone path survives to this day. Oeyama is also associated with traditional Japanese mountain worship and the oni of Japanese folklore.

Route: Kyoto Tango Railway Oeyamaguchi Station > Motoise-Naiku Shrine > Amanoiwato Shrine > Futasegawa Mountain Stream > Japan Oni Cultural Museum > Oeyama Green Lodge
Total walking distance: Approximately 5km, 2.5 hours

・Motoise Naiku Shrine

Day 1 consists of a two-and-a-half-hour hike at the foot of Oeyama visiting some historical shrines and a stunning gorge along the way. The first stop is Motoise Naiku Shrine, a 10-minute walk from Oeyamaguchinaiku Station on the Kyoto Tango Railway.

Motoise Naiku Shrine is said to date back to the mythological age over 2000 years ago. The name Motoise literally means “former Ise,” and comes from the shrine’s association with the famous Ise Shrine in Mie Prefecture. According to legend, Motoise Naiku Shrine is one of a number of places where Amaterasu (Sun Goddess, the central deity of Shintoism) stopped while roaming the land before eventually settling at Ise Shrine where she remains today.

We pass through a thick cedar grove—some of the giant cedars have stood here for over 1000 years—and climb 220 stone steps up to the shrine. It’s pleasantly atmospheric here in the dappled sunlight that shines through the trees. As we take in the untouched nature around us, it’s not difficult to see why people since time immemorial have deemed this a special place worthy of worship.

・Amanoiwato Shrine

Our encounter with primitive nature worship continues along the mountain path beyond Motoise Naiku. We come to a stone gate facing the sacred Himurogatake, a striking conical and almost pyramid-like mountain in the distance. Himurogatake is said to be where the Sun Goddess descended to earth, and as such it is considered too sacred for humans to set foot on—instead you worship from afar here at the gate. According to our guide, the sun sets directly above the mountain peak on the summer solstice, so there’s a profound sense of connection with the Sun Goddess.

Next we arrive at Amanoiwato Shrine, also a “Motoise” (there are in fact three Motoise shrines in Oeyama). There’s a distinctly mystical aura to this spot. The shrine sits on a steep rocky slope, which you can climb using the chain provided to worship close up. The shrine “grounds” are nature itself—the foothill of the mountain, the emerald-green gorge, the giant and unusual rock formations and the lush forest. Towering rocks at the water’s edge are said to be where deities descended to earth and are the stage of a famous legend.
You can visit the trio of Motoise shrines on a tour led by a local English-speaking guide (5,000 yen per person, book through Umi no Kyoto DMO Tour Center at tour@uminokyoto.jp).

・Futasegawa Gorge

We leave Amanoiwato Shrine and head north towards the scenic Futasegawa Mountain Stream Gorge. We take a path along the side of the gorge and soak in the energy of the lush forest—the ultimate in forest bathing! It’s incredibly relaxing walking along here in the gentle light that filters through the trees. We’re soothed by the babble of the river, and the beautiful vivid, soft moss.

You can go down into the gorge from the path. There are some giant rocks and interesting formations here that make for a dynamic sight.

The most impressive view of the Futasegawa is from Shindoji Bridge, an enormous suspension bridge that spans the gorge. You can experience exhilarating vistas of the rushing river below and the imposing mountains on either side, with an added thrill of the swinging bridge! According to our guide, the scenery is especially stunning in autumn when the mountains are awash with red and yellow foliage.

・Walking in the Footsteps of Oni Folklore

After crossing the bridge, we arrive at a mossy stone path. There’s a distinctly different feel from the gorge as we’re surrounded by trees once again. Our guide explains that this path was built about 400 years ago in the early part of the Edo Period (1603-1867). Oeyama is traditionally believed to be inhabited by oni, and this road in particular is associated with a number of legends about oni—one of the rocks along here is even reputed to be an oni footprint.

Further along the road, we reach Japan Oni Cultural Museum, our final destination for Day 1. The museum has various exhibits of oni-related artifacts from Japan and around the world, as well as exploring how humans have engaged with these mythical creatures. What’s fascinating about Japanese oni is that they are not always scary but can be endearing devils too. You’ll see some statues near the museum showing oni in a more comical light.

・Oeyama Green Lodge

We spend the night at Oeyama Green Lodge, which is located next to Japan Oni Cultural Museum. This place has long been a popular lodging for hikers, not least because of the large bath that is just the thing for washing away the fatigue of a day on the trails. After a delicious and satisfying home-cooked dinner, we rest and replenish our energy in preparation for tomorrow.