Discovering the History and Tea of Uji in Half a Day : A Trip Along the Kyoto-Nara Line

The route to Mount Asahi begins at the entrance to the 17th century Kosho-ji Temple. To the right of the white walled entrance a path runs around to the back and then leads on to the hiking trail.

The routes up the mountain are well used by locals but they never get too busy. The atmosphere is peaceful and the nature on display is breathtaking. The route is not too long, around 15 minutes from Kosho-ji before you find yourself climbing a narrow winding rock route up to a small plateau top.

The top area is quite spacious, well looked after, and there are a number of mounds made from piled up small rocks, a tall stone pagoda (said to have been erected by Naomasa Nagai, the 17th century Lord of Yodo), and a wooden hut which houses Asahiyama Kannon, a figurine of the Buddhist deity of mercy.

But most interesting is a tombstone that is said to be that of Crown Prince Uji no Wakiiratsuko. The story told of Crown Prince Uji no Wakiiratsuko is that he committed suicide by throwing himself into the Uji River so that his half-brother, Prince Nintoku, could take the throne and become the 16th Emperor instead of him. Another folktale story connected to Uji no Wakiiratsuko tells that once when finding himself lost he was guided back to town by a rabbit. The rabbit is said to have led the way whilst constantly looking back to check that the Crown Prince was following. Because of that story you will find rabbit charms at Ujigami Shrine at the base of Mount Daikichi, and around Uji.

From Mount Asahi the route retraces our steps a little before taking a route north leading to the Daikichiyama Observation Deck. From here is a fantastic view right across the expanse of Uji City and beyond (see Byodo-in Temple from above!). This observation deck was also used as a location for the Kyoto Animation movie Hibike! Euphonium.

The route down Mount Daikichi is an easy but winding walk and often used by elderly locals for morning exercise. It takes about twenty minutes from the observation deck to the bottom and back down to the road by the river. From here the narrow road by the river leads north towards Uji Bridge.

Tsuen Tea House, the oldest teahouse in Japan, was founded in Uji in 1160. Established by Furukawa Unai, a samurai vassal of Minamoto no Yorimasa, who would later change his name to Tsuen Masahisa, the teahouse is currently run by a 24th generation member of the Tsuen family. The building as it stands today incorporates parts that date back to 1672, is a fine example of machiya architecture, and is recognized as a Japanese heritage site.

After retiring from his samurai roles, Furukawa adopted the name Tsuen, became a monk, and took his residence at the east end of Uji Bridge. His descendants carried on the Tsuen surname, serving as guardians of the bridge, praying for its durability and the safety of those that crossed over it. Amongst those that came to Tsuen for this service were such historical figures as shoguns Ashikaga Yoshimasa and Tokugawa Ieyasu, as well as the leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Tsuen is not just a place to purchase Uji tea (including matcha, the oldest and most well-known tea in Japan, sencha, the most consumed tea in Japan, and hojicha, which is a roasted tea as opposed to steamed, amongst others) but also has a seating area inside that looks out over the scenic Uji River. It is the perfect place to relax and enjoy some of the authentic Japanese sweets on the menu, such as matcha dango or a mix of bitter matcha with sweet cream in a matcha parfait. You could also try some matcha soba noodles.

On display inside the entrance are ceramic tea jars several hundred years old, along with a small wooden statue of the Tsuen founder as he appears in the comic Kyogen play “Tsuen,” carved and presented to the tea house by the renowned 15th century monk Ikkyu Osho. Also displayed is a wooden bucket reputed to have been made by the famous tea ceremony practitioner Sen no Rikyu (the 16th century tea master to Oda Nobunaga, who would later commit ceremonial suicide at the order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi).

Tsuen Tea House is a perfect stopping point along the route to really understand Uji, not just its tea but the history and historical figures that have shaped the culture and story of the city.