Discover Uji: Half-Day Tour of Tea and History, Between Kyoto and Nara

The hiking route to Mount Asahi begins at the Koshoji temple. The temple was founded in Fushimi in 1233, and rebuilt here in 1645 by Nagai Naomasa, the lord of Yodo Castle at that time. There is a small path at the white-walled temple building, extending to the right, leading to the hiking trail.

Though known by the locals, this trail is uncrowded and offers a peaceful nature experience. It’s a short climb of about 15 minutes from the temple, before you find yourself climbing a narrow, winding, rocky route up to the scenic viewpoint.

It is spacious and well-maintained, featuring many piles of stones, a stone pagoda believed to have been erected by Nagai Naomasa, and a wooden hall enshrining a statue of Asahiyama Kannon (Bodhisattva), the goddess of mercy and compassion.

Furthermore, you can see a tombstone believed to be of Crown Prince Uji no Wakiiratsuko, which adds a touch of timeless charm. Legend says he drowned himself in the Uji River so that his half-brother, Prince Nintoku, could become the 16th emperor of Japan instead of him. Another folktale tells of him being guided by a rabbit when he was lost. The rabbit repeatedly looked back to make sure he was following. Rabbit motifs are seen at many places in Uji, including Ujikami Shrine at the base of Mount Daikichiyama (Mount Buttoku), appearing on omikuji (small items containing fortune-telling slips), omamori (traditional amulets) and many more. In the city, you may find a design of a rabbit turning its head back, too.

From Mount Asahi, retrace your steps a little, and then take the northwest path to reach the observation deck on Mount Daikichiyama. As well as Mount Asahi, the view from there is fantastic, stretching across the cityscape and beyond, and includes the Phoenix Hall of Byodoin Temple. This observation deck is also known as a location of the Kyoto Animation film “Sound! Euphonium.”

The descent from here is a gentle but winding path, popular with local seniors for their morning exercise. It takes about twenty minutes to reach the foot of the mountain and the path leading to Ujikami Shrine, Uji-Shrine, and Uji-bashi Bridge in the northwest.

Tsuen-chaya Teahouse is the oldest existing teahouse in Japan, built in 1160 by Furukawa Unai (later renamed Taikeian Tsuen Masahisa), a samurai vassal of Minamoto no Yorimasa. The teahouse is currently run by the 24th generation head of the Tsuen family, Yusuke Tsuen. The existing building, constructed in 1672, is a fine example of the architectural style of machiya (traditional townhouses) in the Edo Period (around 1603-1868). It is registered as a part of the Japan Heritage (Japanese Tea: Eight Centuries of Tradition).

After retiring as a samurai, Furukawa Unai changed his name to Taikeian Tsuen Masahisa, and built a hermitage on the east bank of the Uji River by Uji-bashi Bridge. He settled there as a monk, and the hermitage later became the teahouse. His descendants inherited the surname Tsuen, and in their role as guardians of the bridge, they’ve continued to wish for its durability and the safety of those crossing it. “Tsuen,” a kyogen (a form of traditional Japanese comic theater) depicting the relationship between Minamoto no Yorimasa and Taikeian Tsuen Masahisa is still frequently performed today. The teahouse was visited by renowned historical figures, including Ashikaga Yoshimasa, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu.

At the storefront, you can purchase Uji tea including matcha (powdered green tea), sencha (one of the most common Japanese teas), hojicha (roasted tea), and more. Inside, you can enjoy parfaits made with plenty of freshly ground matcha, a combo of matcha and cha-dango (skewered rice dumplings made with matcha), cha-soba (buckwheat noodles made with matcha) and so on, while gazing out at the Uji-bashi Bridge and scenic Uji River. It is the perfect place to relax and enjoy meals and sweets made with authentic Uji tea.

Just inside the entrance, you can find ceramic chatsubo (traditional tea jars) made centuries ago, the wooden statue of the first-generation Tsuen carved and presented by Ikkyu Sojun (a renowned Buddhist monk around the 15th century), and a wooden bucket that is said to have been made by Sen no Rikyu and used by the famous 16th century warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi to draw the water of the Uji River. (Sen no Rikyu was a prominent figure in the world of 16th-century Japanese tea ceremony. He served Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi as a tea master, but ultimately committed ritual suicide by order of Hideyoshi.)

Tsuen-chaya Teahouse is the perfect place to take a break while exploring Uji. It offers a deeper understanding of the region, through not just its tea, but also the history and historical figures who shaped the culture and stories of the city.