Rural Escapes: Journeying to Two Traditional Japanese Inns

◆An Artist’s Retreat
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Aside from the sense of nostalgia, there is another reason for Seikiro’s popularity—the artistic legacy of its former guests. Over the centuries, Seikiro has provided lodging to countless famous painters, calligraphy artists, novelists and poets who, wishing to escape the trappings of urbanization, would stay here to take inspiration from the area’s natural surroundings.

Many of these artists donated pieces of their work as a token of gratitude, and rather than hiding them behind closed doors, the owner chose to display them for guests in the communal areas. The collection of this ‘small museum’, as the inn refers to itself as, is predominantly from the 18th to early 20th century (or the Edo to Meiji period (1868-1912)).

The gallery theme extends to Seikiro’s guest rooms. In the Anju room on the 2nd floor, for example, sliding doors were adorned with stylized calligraphy art on one side and elegant scenes of nature on the other. Another piece of calligraphy hung above a doorway leading to an enclosed veranda that made for a relaxing reading space overlooking the garden. As we absorbed our room’s artistic touches we couldn’t help but imagine the artists who would have also stayed in this very room.

After taking in the ambience of our room, we explored the other floors. Upon request, Seikiro’s owner gave us a short tour during which we learned the fascinating story behind some of the prominent pieces of their collection. One of the most impressive examples was a nine-meter-long stylized ink map that stretches along the top of the display in the second-floor corridor and depicts topographic features of the Tango Peninsula’s rugged coastline.

Making our way up to the third floor, we came to an enormous 105-tatami mat hall. Traditionally reserved as a banquet room for privileged guests, the grand room featured a coved and coffered ceiling—an architectural feature only found in the most prestigious properties—and housed a number of splendid pieces of artwork, such as an elegant series of twelve sliding door paintings by Suzuki Hyakunen (1828-1891) which depicted each month of the year through natural motifs. There was also an exquisite 200-year-old lacquered picnic set on display and a 100-year-old Japanese drum, which Mr. Tokuda demonstrated how to strike before treating us to a performance of a traditional Miyazu song from their local festival on a bamboo flute. This impromptu music session in a room of such grandeur was truly a memorable experience.

◆The Freshest Local Seafood
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Traditional inns are known to serve excellent cuisine and Seikiro was certainly no exception.
We enjoyed a kaiseki course, a series of small, intricate dishes with ingredients that differ somewhat depending on the season. We were impressed by the array of delectable seafood served which we were told is caught fresh from the local port. Spring brings to the table Spanish mackerel and red sea bream, summer, oysters and Japanese cockles which are a Miyazu specialty, while you can enjoy fresh salmon and mountain vegetables in the autumn. During winter months, two options, a kanburi winter yellowtail and snow crab course, are served. The luscious snow crab of the Tango Peninsula, although a little more expensive, is especially considered a must-try delicacy of the region.

Whether you’re roaming the scenic countryside or venturing up to the coastal regions in the north, Kyoto offers a range of off-the-beaten-track destinations with unique accommodation options that not only capture a more authentic spirit of old Japan, but do so without the crowds. Why not check into one of these remarkable lodgings on your next trip and experience their charm for yourself?

A one-night stay, including two meals, starts from 15,500 yen (including tax and service charges). Prices and cuisine vary with the seasons so please check the homepage for details.