Discover Uji: Half-Day Tour of Tea and History, Between Kyoto and Nara

The first stop on our journey is JR Uji Station, for both local and rapid trains, on the JR Nara Line that connects Kyoto to Nara. (It’s different from Keihan Uji Station, which is another nearby station.) The JR Nara Line started in 1879, and this station opened 17 years later in 1896. The current station building was completed in 2000. It is designed to resemble the famous Phoenix Hall (Hou-ou-do) of Byodoin Temple, the World Heritage site we will visit later on this route.

As you descend the station stairs, you will find a mailbox shaped like a large chatsubo (a traditional jar to store tea leaves), which was installed in 2001 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Uji City (founded in 1951). There is Uji City Tourist Information Center right next to it, too. Now, let’s explore Uji, which has a very long history with settlements formed during the Jomon and Yayoi Periods (around 14,000 BC – mid-3rd century AD)!

World Heritage sites attract many tourists. Byodoin Temple is one of the seventeen parts of “The Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities)” of the World Heritage. This Buddhist temple is located on the west bank of the Uji River. The Heian Period (794-1185) courtier Minamoto no Toru once owned it as his villa, and after he passed away, it had changed ownership several times before coming into the possession of Fujiwara no Michinaga, a prominent aristocrat in the imperial court. After that, the estate was converted into this temple by Michinaga’s son Yorimichi in 1052. Interestingly, Minamoto no Toru and Fujiwara no Michinaga are among the various figures who are said to have been the model for Hikaru Genji, the protagonist of the famous novel written by Murasaki Shikibu, The Tale of Genji.

The most famous building of the temple, the Phoenix Hall (Hou-ou-do), was built as an amida-do (a hall enshrining Amida Buddha) in 1053. Today, it is featured on one side of the 10 yen coin. Having undergone numerous renovations over the centuries, the hall remains as the only existing building dating from the time of its original construction, offering a glimpse into the splendor of the Fujiwara clan’s dominance. Its name derives from the building’s resemblance to a bird, and from the two bronze phoenix statues adorning its roof. The main rectangular structure is flanked by two L-shaped Yokuro (Wing Corridors), and has Biro (Tail Corridor). It came to be called “Phoenix Hall (Hou-ou-do)” around the early Edo Period (around 1603-1868).

The temple also houses Byodoin Temple Museum “Hoshokan”, which opened in 2001. It exhibits 26 Statues of the Praying Bodhisattva (Buddhist Saint) on Clouds, a pair of phoenixes that once adorned the roof of the Phoenix Hall, and more. The museum was built mostly underground so as to harmonize with the garden, which is designated as a Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty, surrounding the Phoenix Hall.

With its beautifully landscaped and scenic garden, Byodoin Temple is a must-see for any visitor to Uji.

Soon after leaving Byodoin Temple through the gate near the museum, you’ll find a main road. Walk east along it, turn left, and cross Kisen Bridge. Then you’ll come to two small islands connected by a bridge in the middle. The smaller island is Tonoshima Island, and the longer one extending north is Tachibanajima Island. They are collectively called Nakanoshima Island, and Nakanoshima Island and Yorimichi Park on the left bank are collectively called Uji Park.

On Tonoshima Island stands Jusanju-Sekito, a magnificent 13-storied stone pagoda. It was erected in 1286 by Eison who was a monk from Saidaiji Temple in Nara. At that time, Uji-bashi Bridge was frequently washed away. With a belief that this was caused by the vengeful spirits of the fish caught in this river, fishing gear was buried on the island, and the stone pagoda was built on it to quell the spirits and pray for the safety of the bridge. Then, a fishing method using ajiro (a traditional fish trap) was prohibited here. The pagoda was washed away in a flood in 1756, but around the end of the Meiji Period (1868-1912), a large part of it was excavated, and the entire pagoda was rebuilt in 1908. Soaring to a height of 15 meters, this is the tallest among the existing stone pagodas in Japan.

This area is also known for another fishing method, ukai (cormorant fishing). The cormorants, birds with long necks, dive into the river, catch fish, and hold them in their throats. Upon returning to the boat, the fish are retrieved by a cormorant manipulator called usho. Though the famous “Cormorant Fishing on the Uji River” is mainly a summer night activity, you can find cute cormorants in the shed on Tonoshima Island.