Beyond the Anime: A Day Trip Exploring Ikkyu-san’s Temple (Shuon-an Ikkyu-ji) & Kyotanabe

Kyotanabe is city located in the south of Kyoto Prefecture, and it has a well-developed public transit system that makes it very convenient to travel to Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara. The city is home to Mount Kannabi, which is believed to be the dwelling place of god, as well as the clear water Kizu River, which produces high-quality crops, along with gyokuro tea and matcha. The famous “Ikkyu-ji Temple” and the long-established “Omido Kannon-ji Temple” are also found there.

Before we visit Ikkyu-ji Temple, let us quickly learn about the life of Ikkyu! Ikkyu Sojun was a Zen Buddhist monk in the Daitoku-ji branch of the Rinzai sect. Many Japanese and Taiwanese people who are currently around fifty years of age grew up watching “Ikkyu-san,” which was a super-popular TV anime series with a viewership rating of over 40%. The series was first broadcasted in 1975 and aired a total of 296 episodes. In the series, Ikkyu was portrayed as a young monk who practices in a monastery. In the face of problems, he would draw circles on his head with his fingers and sit in a lotus position to come up with solutions. With his quick-wit, Ikkyu would also leave the adult shoguns dumbstruck and at a loss for words. Such depictions and plot lines all made Ikkyu a lovable character.

Born in 1394, the real Ikkyu was actually a prince who lived among the people. His father was Japanese Emperor Go-Komatsu, and his mother was Lady Teruko, the daughter of Vice-Councilor of State Hino. Prior to his birth, Lady Teruko found herself to be the target of envy and was expelled from the imperial court. Consequently, she wound up settling in Rakusei Forest, and gave birth to Ikkyu in a local folk’s home nearby. When Ikkyu was a child, he was named Sengikumaru. Due to his mother’s hopes for him to become a monk in his future, Ikkyu, at the mere age of six, was sent to a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect known as Ankoku-ji Temple, where he practiced as a monk for eleven years. In the anime series, Ikkyu’s life during this period was depicted.

Ikkyu Zenshi had many talents and was proficient in Chinese studies. He also served as a monk, poet and an artist. In his later years, he behaved differently from the monks who had a secular impression, as he was spontaneous and free. He lived in Ikkyu-ji Temple in his later years until his passing.

Ikkyu-ji Temple is known by its official name “Shuon-an,” but it was originally called “Myosho-ji Temple” and was once the Zen training monastery of Daio Kokushi, who was a high priest of the Rinzai sect. After Myosho-ji Temple was caught up in a war and deserted, it was restored by Ikkyu Zenshi. At the same time, Ikkyu was grateful for the favor of the masters who practiced under the sect, and therefore renamed the temple Shuon-an to repay their kindness.

Compared to the famous scenic spots for autumn leaves in Kyoto, where crowds of people come to visit every fall, Ikkyu-ji Temple is much more quiet, secluded and tranquil, which allows travelers to slow down and enjoy the beautiful scenery of red maple. In late November every year, when travelers step into the main gate of Ikkyu-ji Temple, they are shocked and fascinated by the beauty of the red maple on both sides of the stone slab road, which makes them linger around without the thought of leaving. In the following, we will show you the places you must visit when you come to Ikkyu-ji Temple.

1. The “South Garden” of the Hojo Garden

The Hojo Garden of Ikkyu-ji Temple is declared a national site of scenic beauty, and it consists of a North Garden, a South garden, and an East Garden. The South Garden is a typical Zen garden that is largely characterized by its white sand and pruned Satsuki azaleas, which are simple yet elegant.

2. “Kokyu-an,” the Tea Ceremony House, will be Made Specially Open in Autumn

Kokyu-an was originally located in Higashiyama, Kyoto, but was moved to this location due to the “Onin War” that broke out in 1467. Afterwards, Kokyu-an became a thatched convent where Ikkyu Zenshi resided in his later years. Surrounding the convent, there are Karesansui gardens, which are quiet and elegant. According to legend, Kokyu-an is also said to have been built by Murata Juko, who was the founder of the Japanese tea ceremony. While it is not open to the public in regular times, Kokyu-an will be made accessible for special worship in late autumn each year.

Here, visitors and worshipers can enjoy matcha and special Japanese sweets, and feel the spirit of “indulging in tea and Zen.”

3. Enjoy Matcha and Zenzai Red Bean Soup

After worshiping at Kokyu-an, we recommend you to enjoy some matcha or Zenzai (Japanese-style red bean soup with roasted mochi) in the “Kuri” (monastery kitchen). Although “Zenzai” was originally a Buddhist term, legend has it that after drinking such a delicious red bean soup one day, Ikkyu Zenshi was so moved that he exclaimed, “what an excellent soup this is,” which in turn led future generations to refer to this sweet soup as Zenzai (excellent).

Also, the natto of Ikkyu-ji Temple is even more famous as it is very different from those commercially available, and is made with a special recipe that was handed down by Ikkyu Zenshi himself. When there was a famine in Kyoto during the Onin War, Ikkyu Zenshi taught everyone how to make this long-lasting natto on their own. It also serves as an important source of additional protein for monks who do not eat meat. As Ikkyu-ji Temple’s natto is only sold within the boundaries of Ikkyu-ji Temple, those who want it should not miss out.