A Day Trip to Ikkyuji Temple and Nearby Attractions: Follow Ikkyu-san’s Footsteps From Classic Anime Series

Kyotanabe, a city in southern Kyoto Prefecture, has good public transportation, providing easy access from Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara. The city is blessed with natural beauty, including Kannabi-yama Mountain, believed to be a dwelling place of deities, and the Kizu River, which nourishes the land and contributes to the high quality of local crops, including renowned gyokuro (luxury Japanese green tea) and matcha (fine green tea known for its whisking method). Kyotanabe also offers rich cultural heritage such as Ikkyuji Temple and Omido Kannonji Temple.

Before visiting Ikkyuji Temple, let’s quickly learn about the life of Ikkyu Sojun! He was a Zen Buddhist monk of the Daitoku-ji branch of the Rinzai school. In Ikkyu-san, he is depicted as a young monk in training. When faced with a problem, he draws circles on his head with his fingers, sitting in the lotus position, and comes up with a solution. His quick wit often leaves adults like the shogun (military ruler) surprised and speechless. All of these depictions and storylines made him a unique character. This anime series was really popular and ran for a total of 296 episodes after its first broadcast in 1975. Many Japanese and Chinese people who are now around 40-50 years old grew up watching it.

Ikkyu Sojun, born in 1394, is said to have been a prince who lived among common people. There are various theories about his birth, and one suggests that his father was Emperor Gokomatsu, and his mother, a woman named Teruko who was a daughter of Hino Chunagon, a counselor in the Imperial court. It is also said that Teruko was expelled from the Imperial court and gave birth to Ikkyu Sojun in a commoner’s house in Kyoto. Ikkyu Sojun’s childhood name was said to have been Sengikumaru. At the young age of six, he was sent to a Zen temple of the Rinzai school, Ankokuji Temple, because Teruko hoped he would become a monk. He trained as a monk there for eleven years, and the boy in the cartoon is based on how he might have been during this period.

Ikkyu Sojun was a multi-talented person. He was a great monk, and also a poet, an artist, and proficient in classical Chinese. While possessing a serious side, he behaved naturally and freely, rejecting authority, and was quite different from ordinary monks. In his later years, he lived in Ikkyuji Temple, where he eventually breathed his last.

Ikkyuji Temple’s official name is Shuon’an, and it was originally called Myoshoji Temple. It was a Zen training hall founded by Nanpo Shomyo (Entsu Daio Kokushi), a prominent Rinzai priest. Myoshoji Temple fell into ruin due to war, but was restored by Ikkyu Sojun. He renamed it Shuon’an (a hermitage of repaying kindness) to express his gratitude to his mentor.

With its breathtaking display of fall foliage, Ikkyuji Temple draws numerous visitors every year (around late November – early December). Though it’s a well-known destination, it offers a tranquil atmosphere compared to bustling places in Kyoto City, allowing you to leisurely soak in the beauty of the vibrant colored leaves. The moment you step through the main gate, you’ll be captivated by the fascinating tunnel of Japanese maple leaves above the stone-paved path. And the deeper you go, the more captivated you’ll become by its beauty, making it difficult to leave the temple. Now, visit the places below and discover the charm of this temple more.

1. Shuon’an Rock Gardens: A Zen Oasis of Tranquility

The Shuon’an Rock Gardens are designated as a Place of Scenic Beauty. It includes the Hojo Garden that consists of the north, east, and south gardens. Each garden has its own distinctive features and is a superb example of karesansui (traditional Japanese Zen rock garden). The south garden features white gravel and neatly trimmed satsuki azaleas, creating a simple and elegant atmosphere. This place provides a tranquil and refreshing experience, so it’s also nice to visit in spring or summer. (This temple is stunning with its fresh green leaves, as well as the fall colors!)

2. Kokyu’an: Whispers of the Past

The Kokyu’an hermitage was originally located in Higashiyama, Kyoto, and was relocated to its current location due to the Onin War that broke out in 1467. Afterwards, Ikkyu Sojun spent his later years in this hermitage. The surrounding serene and graceful karesansui garden is said to have been created by Murata Juko, who is considered the father of wabicha (a style of Japanese tea ceremony).

Although not normally open to the public, Kokyu’an is open for special viewing in late fall every year, where you can experience the spirit of tea and Zen, with tea such as matcha, and Japanese sweets.

3. Ikkyu’s Legacy: Savor Zenzai and Ikkyuji Natto

After visiting Kokyu’an, we recommend enjoying matcha or zenzai (sweet Japanese red bean soup with mochi rice cake). The word “zenzai” was originally a Buddhist term to express admiration for something great. There are various theories about the origin of the name for this sweet treat. One theory suggests that Ikkyu Sojun had a soup made with azuki red bean one day, and found it so delicious that he said, “This soup is amazing,” and that’s how it got its name.

Another thing you should not miss out on is the famous Ikkyuji Natto, fermented beans with a unique flavor. It’s made according to a special recipe Ikkyu Sojun taught to people during the Onin War, when Kyoto suffered a famine. It has a long shelf life, making it an ideal preserved food. It has also been a valuable source of protein for monks and priests who do not eat meat. If you’re looking for an experience of a taste of history and tradition, be sure to give it a try.