10 Inspiring Places in Western Kyoto: Bamboo Groves, Temples, and History

The Asahi Beer Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art opened in 1996 and regularly holds exhibitions of modern Japanese and Western art.

The Oyamazaki Villa was built in the 1920s as a personal weekend retreat by Shotaro Kaga (1888-1954), an influential businessman. Kaga had traveled through Europe in his younger years; he was the first Japanese person to reach the summit of Jungfrau in the Swiss Alps.

The Oyamazaki Villa reflects Kaga’s tastes and the inspiration he found in British culture. Every detail in the layout of the garden and the villa’s surroundings reflect the initial owner’s love for nature. In fact, the villa was renowned for orchids, which Kaga began cultivating himself in a greenhouse behind the mansion after learning the techniques in the United Kingdom.

Nevertheless, Japanese artisanal crafts and aesthetics appear in many architectural details of the Oyamazaki Villa. The villa itself is an object of art that enriches one’s understanding of Japanese culture with every glance.

The artwork exhibited at this museum belongs to the art collection of Tamesaburo Yamamoto (1893-1966), the first president of the Asahi Breweries, contemporary and friend of Kaga’s, and a supporter of the Mingei art movement. (*2)

*2 The Mingei movement, started in the mid-1920s, promoted the beauty of Japanese folk crafts.

The Western art collection, which includes several paintings by Monet, is displayed in the Subterranean Jewel Box, an annex designed by renowned contemporary architect, Tadao Ando. This structure fuses harmoniously with the villa and its natural surroundings, enhancing the beauty of the scenery.

Visitors are encouraged to enjoy a coffee break on the terrace of the villa, which offers a wonderful view of Oyamazaki and the confluence of the three rivers. (*3)

*3 As of September 2020, the terrace is temporarily closed as a measure to prevent the spread of COVID-19 infections.

Hoshakuji, a temple with ancient roots, neighbors the Asahi Beer Oyamazaki Villa Art Museum. It was established in 724. Called the “temple of tresures,” it’s said to answer prayers for success in business.

The temple gate houses two guardian statues created in the Kamakura period (1185-1333), designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.

As you proceed toward the main hall, you’ll pass by a centuries-old Three-Story Pagoda, another Important Cultural Property of Japan. Legend has it that this structure sprung up overnight more than 400 years ago, which is why it called Ichiya no to, the One-Night Pagoda.

Enmado, the building to the right of the main hall, houses a magnificent scene depicting Enma, the king of the underworld, and four judges. In the Buddhist tradition, these deities judge the destiny of each soul after death.

These statues are an exquisite example of Kamakura-period Buddhist sculpture. Sculpting during this time attained an unprecedented level of realism and expressiveness. The Enma statuary complex is also an important cultural property. (*An entry fee is required to visit the Enmado Hall.)

Take your time to explore the grounds of Hoshakuji, which has played an essential role in the community for centuries. The hiking trail leading to the summit of Mt. Tenno begins on these temple grounds. You’ll find it to the right of the main hall.

Myokian is a Zen temple established in the last decade of the fifteenth century. It was built in the Muromachi period (1336-1573) when arts such as tea ceremony, Noh theater, and ikebana flower arrangement flourished.

This temple is famous as the home of Tai’an, a tea ceremony room designed by Sen no Rikyu (1522-1591), the tea ceremony master. Tai’an is a national treasure and the only remaining tea room created by Sen no Rikyu.

Tai’an is an extremely small space measuring 2 jo (1.80×1.80 m), accommodating just two persons: one guest and the host. The room is the epitome of simplicity, with mud walls, tatami mats, and a small window. There is minimal space to display a hanging scroll and some wildflowers, which are essential elements of the tea ceremony.

Seeing Tai’an, you can imagine a tea ceremony held here; the guest and the host, seated together in the small room. Only the sounds of the water being poured in the bowl breach the silence. This is a place where an honored guest receives a ritualized gesture of hospitality.

Sen no Rikyu faced many challenges in creating such a space in the latter half of the sixteenth century, a time of ambitious warlords and strife. Tea ceremony rooms were created as places where everyone should forget about the unrest. The sheer existence of Tai’an after all these centuries is nothing short of a miracle.

Please note that in order to see Tai’an, a prior reservation by a post is required at least one month in advance. The room can be seen only before noon and only from the outside (*4). A replica of Tai’an can be seen at the Oyamazaki Town Historical Museum.

*4… To prevent the further spread of COVID-19 infections, visits to Tai’an are temporarily suspended. Please check the latest information on the official website (Japanese).

The ten destinations introduced above are just a few of all the wonders that Otokuni has to offer. It’s definitely worth taking a trip outside Kyoto City to discover the deeper dimensions to the region’s history and culture.

When visiting Take no sato – Otokuni, don’t miss out on specialties made with bamboo shoots, either at Kinsuitei by Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine or at Uosu, a dining facility in Muko that offers sushi made with bamboo shoots.

We suggest staying at Discover Kyoto Nagaokakyo or Kyoto Guest Inn Nagaokakyo, two stylish accommodation facilities that incorporate the regional bamboo culture to offer comfortable rooms with Japanese decorum and unique activities. Hotel Dew Oyamazaki (Japanese) is also very convenient for travelers in this area.