Epicurean Delights: Tango is a Foodie Paradise

100-year-old recipe from the Japanese Navy

Lastly let’s take in some of the gourmet delights of Maizuru. The port town of Maizuru is also famous for its seafood, but the city has another delicacy. This is a dish based on a recipe book for the Japanese Navy which was published 110 years ago. Maizuru was the first naval port constructed on the Sea of Japan coast in 1901, and has played an important role in maritime defense ever since. The charming red brick buildings that you can find in the city were also built for military use during the same period. It is this history that has led to the preservation of a valuable collection of original recipes.

These recipes consist of about 200 dishes, ranging from sushi and tempura to Western dishes like omelet and roast beef, as well as confectionery such as doughnuts. Delicious and highly nutritious dishes contributed to improving the performance of sailors. The recipes tell of the spirit of the naval cooks who incorporated a number of Western dishes into their repertoire—dishes that were still rare at the time.

At the Shoeikan restaurant located in the eastern district of Maizuru, visitors can enjoy Western-style cuisine based on century-old naval recipes. Originally opened in 1904 as an inn, Shoeikan was frequented by famous naval officers. The original building was restored and re-opened as a restaurant in 2018. The elegant exterior and the hall with a Noh stage indicated how prestigious the inn used to be.

One of the restaurant’s specialties is beef stew. The tender meat melts in your mouth and the rich flavor is the result of a secret recipe. Curry rice, now firmly established as a favorite dish in Japan, was also a staple on board naval vessels. Introduced from India via Britain in the early Meiji period (1868-1912), the curry roux was thickened in Japan to its present form with the exotic nature of the spice mix.

Another unique item on the menu is the Japanese home-style dish nikujaga, made with beef, potatoes, and other vegetables gently simmered in soy sauce and sugar. According to Awa, the manager at Shoeikan, nikujaga is said to have originated in the naval yards of Maizuru. There is an anecdote about a Japanese naval officer who had spent time in England who requested beef stew for shipboard meals. The Japanese chef who fielded the request did not know how to make beef stew but stuck at it through trial and error…Regardless of its authenticity, it seems certain that it was a standard naval ration at the time.

Compare the two dishes and you will experience the richness of modern Japanese cuisine, which has evolved by combining elements from Western food cultures.